In 2019, OnceMore^® ? was launched by Södra, Sweden’s largest forest owner association with more than 50,000 forest owners. Since then, OnceMore^® has grown to become the world’s first large-scale process for recycling blended fabrics and a leading force in the conception of next-gen materials. Utilising its patented dissolving pulp, made from wood chips and recycled textile waste, OnceMore is able to produce responsibly sourced fibres and textiles, offering a partial solution to the global problem of textile waste. OnceMore^®'s first milestone came in producing dissolving pulp made from 20% of textile waste in 2022 after previously starting off with 3% in 2019. Since then, the team has been working hard towards reaching 50% textile waste, with preliminary tests starting in 2022.

Over the last five years, OnceMore^® has been working alongside fashion brands who are aligned in their mission to produce clothing with recycled content. Collaborating with names such as Feben, Filippa K, Bestseller, and Lindex, OnceMore^® has provided the raw materials for these brands to create clothing made from recycled viscose, offering a more-considered alternative textile for use in high-fashion and everyday consumer garments.

October 30^th marked the launch of the OnceMore^® Togetherinitiative, which sees five textile and yarn suppliers join OnceMore^® in their mission to transform the textile industry. The first five partners to join are: New Focus Textiles, Tak Sang, Nuryildiz, Pameks, and Barta. By joining OnceMore^® Together, they commit to the following:

• Maintaining transparency in their value chain.
• All fabrics produced using OnceMore^® to contain at least 30% of its fibres in the final textile.
• Adhering to ethical codes and sustainability targets aligned with global standards.
• Evaluation through Södra's Partner Assessment.

By joining this initiative, these partners will be able to show their dedication to producing sustainable textiles.

So what do the next five years hold for OnceMore^®?? Manager Asa Degerman says: “In five years time circularity will have a more prominent meaning for us. We have started to change our purchase behaviour, how we “consume” textile and fashion, perhaps we have even started to be Circulents rather than Consumers. We are much better at reusing, restyling and also recycling. And we will design clothes with the “end-of-life” stage top of mind. Bring on the future!”

While the company’s technology can currently handle textile waste containing cotton or polycotton, there is a need to develop the technology to be able to remove low levels of other impurities as well, such as other fibres and accessories. This development is done in a collaboration with the textile fibre producer Lenzing. Both companies are keen to encourage producers of textiles to design for circularity. This means understanding how different design decisions determine the recyclability of the garment. The vision for the future is that every garment is worn for a long time and at end of life, it is possible to be recycled. For this to come true, there is a need for greater coordination throughout the value chain, allowing textile recycling to become a dominant force in tackling textile waste.

OnceMore will be exhibiting at Future Fabric Expo New York; November 19-20 2024, Metropolitan Pavilion - The Suite, Manhattan, NY.